The vast majority of hunters and shooters out there use a scope of some kind with their rifles. A scope makes things more accurate - most of the time (Military folks who train with iron sights don't get mad. you know you're awesome.).
Sighting a rifle is an important process when it comes to the accuracy and precision of your shots. A gun that isn’t properly aligned makes you miss your shots, whether you’re at the range, in competition, or on a hunt. And since you are 100% responsible for where your bullet goes once it leaves the barrel, you need to ensure you have a properly sighted-in rifle.
While the setup may require some technical know-how, even a novice gun enthusiast can follow some simple steps to improve their rifle’s aim.
If you’re having trouble hitting the target with consistency, you may need some help adjusting the scope to achieve a more accurate shot – keep reading to learn more.
Mount and Bore Sight
To make sure the scope and barrel are in perfect alignment, you first need to have the scope properly mounted and bore sighted. Make sure you use quality mounts and rings that match your rifle and optic.
Mounts
Use mounts that match your rifle, scope and scope height. Scope mounts also need to be 100% secure with the receiver. If the mounts come loose, the bullet wanders. I could go on and on about how important this is.
I was on a hunt years ago with a well-known rifle company. The rifle seemed to shoot great - until we went into the field the first day. I had shot it about 10 times at the range, and my last shot was a little off, but I was sure I flinched. Nope. When it came time to shoot a buck, I missed by a mile. Upset at myself, I went back to the range. The scope, an amazing Leupold, sat funny because the mounts had come loose. They hadn't been installed correctly. An Allen wrench and a little LocTite and I was back in business.
You should also use a level with the bubbles to help you ensure that your scope mounts are straight. A dowel that is the same diameter as your scope really helps get the two rings aligned if you're using two-piece scope mounts. The level will come in handy again when you set the scope in the rings. Tighten the rings so that you're taking turns criss-crossing the bolt pattern, so that you're applying equal pressure to each side. Keep track of the level so you stay aligned. This is vital!
Distance
Next, determine the distance you want your scope sighted to. It’s recommended to start by zeroing in at a distance of 25 yards. Even for longer-distance shooting, start at a shorter distance, then once you’re able to strike the paper, adjust the scope to get your longer-range zero (more on that later). This is exactly how I fixed the sight in issue mentioned above. Got it on paper at 25 yards, and zeroed in there, compensating for bullet drop with the ammunition I was using.
The simplest way to zero in your rifle scope starts with a process called “bore sighting.” It’s a quick solution when you need to get the rifle and scope closely aligned. Typically, this involves doing your best to align your bore and optic and then shooting at a paper target, which then gives you a hole from which to adjust the scope. With the hole as a reference, you’ll know which direction to adjust the crosshair for your final, fine-tuned zero. Sometimes, it’s the best option for those situations that unexpectedly arise, such as when you bump your rifle against a tree on a hunt or drop it in a shooting competition.
Required Tools
To sight-in a rifle scope, you’ll need some tools to get the job done right. First, you’ll have to decide on a scope. I like bigger lenses and 30mm scope tube to allow more more light to come into the optic. Unless you're shooting really long distances, mostly in competition, extremely high magnification scopes aren't always the best. I usually use a 4-16x50 scope on my 7mm Mag and 90% of my shots are taken with the scope on 4X or 6X.
Next, you might need to acquire a boresighter. This tool cuts down the time it takes and allows you to align your reticle, sight, and scope crosshairs with the true center of the gun bore. The better of these types of devices shines a laser through the muzzle, beaming a dot against a target and allowing you to easily see where your scope aims. From here, zeroing in on the target becomes much easier. NEVER RELY ON A BORE SIGHT ALONE TO "SIGHT IN" YOUR RIFLE. You MUST use range time and actually shoot it!
Another item you’ll need is a vice – also called a shooting rest or gun bench. These are engineered to keep your gun completely stationary and consistent for sighting-in cross-hairs, locking your gun into a natural shooting position while weighing it down so it doesn’t move as you make adjustments. Eliminating movement in the gun while you’re sighting-in is key to achieving perfect alignment. Many experienced shooters can use a good set of shooting bags, too.
Additionally, you’ll need some sort of paper target to shoot at, which can be found at the gun range or a sporting goods store. Even a large piece of cardboard with a bullseye would work. With the target placed 25 yards, you’ll be able to look through the barrel and center the bullseye exactly in the bore’s center.
Finally, you’ll need some or all of the little tools and supplies necessary for shooting and working on a gun. And, don’t forget to have plenty of ammo, lubrication/gun oil, safety gear, and other essentials in a handy location near your setup.
How to Make Scope Adjustments
Whether you’re getting ready for a three-gun shooting competition, preparing for the deer-hunting season, or something else entirely, a properly sighted rifle leads to an overall better shooting experience. Let’s take a look at how you can make various scope adjustments to improve your rifle’s accuracy.
First, however, determine the proper distance you want to zero in at. While it’s easier to start shorter and work your way backward, it ultimately comes down to the range you’ll likely be shooting at. Here are some good rules of thumb to follow when deciding on a distance:
- Sighting-in at longer distances will give the bullet a downward trajectory, causing shorter shots to strike lower.
- Sighting-in at shorter distances gives the bullet an upward trajectory, so it will be high when shooting long distances.
Bullet drop is specific to a load, too, so look at the basic ballistic data on the back of your box of ammo, and use that as a starting point. I have my .308 zeroed at 100 yards with Federal 180-grain Fusion ammo, my 7mm Rem Mag at 200 yards with Federal 160-grain Barnes TSX ammo, and my 6.5 Weatherby RPM at 300 yards with 124-grain Weatherby Hammer ammo. I did my zero based on the ballistic data on the box, followed up by extensive range time. Practice makes perfect. Zero your rifle at the yardage you choose and go from there.
Focusing the Eyepiece
To ensure you can clearly see the crosshairs, you first have to adjust the scope’s eyepiece. Find the focus knob or knobs near the side of the scope closest to your eye, where you can make positive or negative adjustments depending on your particular vision requirements. There are two main types of focus adjustments: “standard,” where the whole eye shell twists, and “fast focus,” which turns the lens via an internal mechanism while the eye shell stays stationary.
After you’ve placed your firearm securely in a vice, point your scope toward your target, or a backdrop that contrasts well with the color of your crosshairs. Step into a standard shooting position, peer through the eyepiece, and adjust the focus knob(s) until you notice the view is crystal clear.
My advice for the focus of your scope is to get your face settled into position so that you get 100% of the view from the scope. You should have ample eye relief, which is the distance from the scope to your eye. Several inches in needed. Much closer and you're going to get "tanked" in the eye by the scope when you shoot. Get used to the focus at low magnification first.
Elevation Adjustments
This is the up and down part of the cross hair - the horizontal line. Look through the scope and when you can see the crosshairs, adjust the elevation of your scope. Look through the scope and rotate the elevation turret, located on the top of the scope, until the crosshair is on the same level vertically as the bullseye at whatever range you're using. At this step, you may need a friend’s assistance to rotate the knob as you look through the scope and tell them how many units—or “clicks”—to adjust to center in on the bullseye. I usually make this adjustment with my trigger hand, as the other hand is always stable at the front of the stock.
A click is normally measured in two separate units, Minute of Angles (MOA), expressed in inches, and Milliradian (MRAD), expressed in millimeters. To learn more about sighting your rifle with these measurements – read our post, MRAD vs. MOA: The Ultimate Showdown.
Windage Adjustments
Another component controlled by the turret at the top is the windage, allowing you to move the scope left or right. Essentially, you’ll repeat the process you just did for adjusting the elevation. The more you turn the dial left or right, the more windage you get for either direction.
If you’ve made it this far – congratulations! Your rifle is now basically set and it's time to fling some lead downrange and see how correct things are. Trust me, it's not going to be perfect right off the bat. You will need to take a few shots, let the barrel cool and take a few more. Then clean the rifle and start over...
Focusing in on the Target
To confirm you’ve done the task properly, secure the bolt or reassemble your AR and take aim at a bullseye. If your shot strikes the target, you’re on the right track. If you don’t see the bullet hole anywhere on paper, start again with the previous steps until you’re able to hit it. Getting the perfect aim takes practice and a little patience to adjust and get things right. Again, choose a high-contrast target that you can clearly see through your scope and crosshairs. This helps keep everything easy to see.
Adjusting the Scope Itself
Finally, you may need to adjust the scope itself, especially if you’re using a scope on a new rifle. You will first need to reset the scope to factory zero. The good thing is you can change the settings after attaching it to the rifle. There are two main ways to go about doing this.
The first way is to place the scope against a mirror. Peering through the eyepiece, you’ll see the reticle if the scope is aligned on center. If not, you’ll see a shadow of the reticle in the mirror – make your windage and elevation adjustments until the shadow is no longer visible.
The second way is to wind up the turrets completely in one direction and then in the other direction, counting the number of clicks while doing so. Divide the total number of clicks by two, spin it back to that number, and you’ll bring the turret to the center.
In all honesty though, if you've mounted and bore- sighted the rifle and scope, you shouldn't have to make huge swings in adjustments to get the bullets going where you want them too. If it isn't working, take everything off and start over again. You may have missed something in initial mounting that can cause you issues in the end.
Protect Your Hearing While Improving Accuracy
If you spend a lot of time shooting, it may be a good idea to invest in a suppressor. Not only do they reduce ear-damaging gun blasts, but they actually make shots more accurate. Thanks to a significant reduction in recoil, modern silencers have no negative effect on the bullet trajectory, and can even help your aim thanks to a less aggressive kickback.
If you want to improve your firearm’s accuracy, we specialize in a wide variety of industry-leading silencer products. Silencer Central is the only silencer reseller on the ATF advisory board and has simplified the process involved in purchasing high-quality Class Three firearm suppressors. We quickly obtain inventory and expedite interactions with the ATF so you can spend less time waiting around and more time sharpening your shooting skills.
Take a look at our silencer selection for more information about our firearm accessories.
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